As Senior Vice President of SFX Preferred Resorts I travel a lot but only occasionally have time to do local site-seeing adventures. Luckily for me, this last August was different during my visit to Riviera Mayas Grand Mayan Resorts.
Encouraged by our graphic designer who had never been to Mexico before, we left Cancun and Riviera Maya behind and started our day trip via rental car in a quest to discover one of the most important ruin sites on the Yucatan Peninsula, Cobá. Located roughly 95 miles (170km) away from Cancun, it was a shorter drive than to the well-known Chichén Itzá site and locals said it was just as fascinating.
Lured by the opportunity to climb the 130 steps of the Nohoch Mul Pyramid Ixmoja (the tallest pyramid on the Yucatán peninsula), the question was not if I would do it but how it would feel at 138 feet looking over the tree tops and seeing miles and miles of jungle.
Getting there was no problem. From the Grand Mayan Resort the drive was on a highway and once we got to Tulum, we drove on a two-way paved road. From Playa del Carmen it took us about 1 hour 45 minutes. Road signs were clear on the 109 and not confusing at all. After lots of dense jungle to the left and right and a few small villages we were there.
First decision upon arriving – to hire a private guide or not. We wanted to soak it in and be taken back in time so guide it was. This was an excellent move, as we quickly came to realize there was so much to learn about the history of these ruins and culture of the inhabitants.
Our guide was friendly, knowledgeable and very articulate. The story he told was fascinating and we were never bored. As he took us from site to site, explaining each structure in detail, how it was made and decorated, the purpose it served, and its date in time, we got closer to understanding the ancient civilization that once thrived in Cobá.
We learned that Cobá is not a single site but a large group of sites all radiating from the central pyramid, connected by over 16 Mayan ceremonial white roads (sacbéob). The three main areas that visitors are allowed to explore are the Nohoch Mul structures (main pyramid), Conjunto Pinturas (spiritual area) and Macanxoc structures (close to the lagoon that bears the same name).
For many years Cobá was an ignored piece of Mayan history due to its location deep in the jungle. To this day, this Mayan site is barely excavated, with only a small portion being open to tourists. Even the main pyramid Ixmoja is still covered on the back side in foliage. Cobá has only recently been linked to the highway, and for most of modern history, was inaccessible to all but the most intrepid visitors making it a true wonder in the Yucatán.
During the excavation process 2 ball courts were also restored. These ball courts were for a ritualized sporting game called Pitz. Hacky Sack in nature, players maneuvered an up to 20 pound rubber ball handcrafted from latex that had been extracted from rubber trees in the surrounding forest. The winners of the game suffered different perils depending on the region, era and reigning sect. Some were beheaded while others were only bled during an end of game ritual.
After about an hour of going through the first couple of sites we hopped a Pedi-cab to get to the main attraction Ixmoja, my big challenge.
The other options were to rent a bicycle or walk. I was so glad I saved my strength for the climb up the pyramid. With 90 degree temperatures plus humidity I needed the break. The Pedi-cab was fun with a stop at a beverage shack to quench the thirst. Excitement was brewing.
When we arrived at the base, looking up at the ant-like figures near the top, I hesitated for about 3 seconds. I knew I had to do this. The trek up was long, steep and slow. During my climb, I began understand (making eye contact with some of the people coming down very slowly) getting up the pyramid was going to be easier than getting down.
Getting to the top of Ixmoja was triumphant and exhilarating. Seeing the tops of other nearby pyramids jutting out from the dense jungle was 360 degree panoramic. Was the view just super powerful or was I picking up on some sort of magical energy from the top of the pyramid?
Up there I realized there was no quick way down. Ancient sacrificial victims could not just have run away. Getting down in one piece could only happen with a slow, and careful descent.
After getting down, very carefully, we hopped back on the Pedi-cab that got us about halfway back to the entrance. Since we had a few hours to get back to the Grand Mayan Resort I was glad we didn’t try and walk the enitre way in the heat and humidity. I still had some energy to spare for the ride back.
Heading towards Tulum on the 109 we stopped at a local village restaurant and enjoyed a great traditional soft taco lunch while we shared our pictures with each other and all agreed how worth the drive it was.
I was glad I took the time to visit this very important site of the Maya Civilization. I encourage our members to consider visiting the Cobá Ruins and learning more about this areas exciting history and culture. There are so many exciting things to do in this mysterious and wonderful place.
